Archive for July, 2010

Oysters in Tomales Bay

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Choco is our resident SF guru. He organized a trip up to Tomales Bay to Tomales Bay Oyster Company to eat our hearts (and possibly our large intestines and colons) out with oysterrrs! We got there an hour and a half after our designated meeting time (and waited an hour and a half till the others got there), and R2 and I were like lost puppies.

Well, first, we had to get there. It was a little under an hour along the curvy roads of Highway 1. I was like, “I don’t understand. We’re totally landlocked. How can people grow oysters in dirt?” and then we turned exactly one more corner and there was water as far as the eye could see.  Not ocean, but, like, a bay (DERRR). We found the place (you can’t miss it, because it will be preceded by a half mile of cars parked along the road on both sides) and walked up.

It was like a BONANZA! Music, picnic tables, grills, water, dogs, sunglasses, suntan lotion, bikinis, TONS of Asians (why?) and OYSTERS. We wandered around, dazed, and ran into a table that was just being vacated. We agreed to share the table with a family wearing U$C shit (boooo!) until the table next door opened up, which it promptly did. Even though this family was uber nice and gave me and R2 sunscreen AND came over later to give us a grilled oyster, I still gave them a mini finger when they turned their backs. Heh heh. That’s what you get for just giving us ONE oyster to share for the two of us.

I fucking keep getting ahead of myself. We got to the table and looked around, at a loss. R2 had brought french bread, brie, red wine, white wine, a 24-pack of Deetch (what we call Diet Coke), a lemon, and Tabasco. Choco was supposed to bring us oyster cracking thingies and gloves and wisdom. Without him, all I could do was half heartedly take pictures of the dogs running around and all R2 could do was sit around and get sunburnt.

It’s like a rotten banana put on his favorite Euro-trash shirt to go clubbing

We soon said “FUCK THIS!” (well, R2 said “Shuck this!”) and marched over to the oyster stand, where a buncha tough looking guys would sling to the waiting customers big plastic mesh bags filled with oysters (slash clams, mussels). The kindly U$C motherfuckers had told us that if we wanted to eat them raw, we should stick to the extra small, and get larger ones only to BBQ. So we took their excellent advice and got a bag of 50 extra smalls for $35. We also shelled out (I punned too!) an exorbitant $15 for an oyster shucker and $5 for gloves.

The phrase “you’re doing it wrong” was invented for the folly that followed, at least for our first couple oysters. R2 had brought his dull Elvis knife, which he used to poke at his first oyster with his tongue sticking out the side of his mouth. I didn’t want to look uncool, but there was no reception there and I couldn’t look up how to do it on my iPhone so instead of being hesitant I fucking rammed the shucker into the side, wriggled my wrist, and cracked it open with a whispered YAHH.

Oysters are horrifying beings. They look like labia. The day was hot, and milky stuff was spewing out of where I had fatally injured the thing with my overzealous ram. Bits of shell – shrapnel – were lodged in its delicate flesh. Perhaps it stung when I squeezed lemon juice into its cuts and then, insult to injury, Tabasco.

I didn’t much care. I slurped it down, seawater (delicious oyster tears), seasoning, spewage, shell, and sweet, delicious oyster.

I reached for another.

Would you say minora or majora?

After five or so, we got quite good at our jimmy-rigged technique, though official tool designed to for the task > Elvis when it came to ease of shucking. Aside from the one that I cracked open only to find a tablespoon full of stinky mud inside, everything seemed ok. I discarded a number of them under the mantra “When in doubt throw it out,” but both of us ate well over 20 oysters each.

This despite there being no “r” in July, nor in the months sandwiching July, when eating oysters is like a reverse Russian Roulette where all but one chamber is filled. We had tickets to see Peter Pan 360 later on that day and I prayed for an aisle seat just in case horridness were to strike.

Incorrect form – you are supposed to put your palm on top, ya stupid shuck

On our last four oysters, a friendly gal came up to us and asked if we wanted her leftover cocktail sauce and horseradish. Um, YES. The oysters with these accoutrements were out of this world, and R2 and I both deeply lamented that we could only eat two each with these miracle toppings.

But then Choco showed up with his entourage, and they had accoutrements galore, including a wine bottle opener, which R2 and I had neglected to bring, a container full of pineapple (I ate the whole thing unabashedly without sharing), some fancy Cowgirl Creamery brie ([a], way to show us up with your expensive cheese, Choco >:| and [b] a runny cheese on a hot day is not a good combo with raw oysters), and CHARCOAL!  They went and bought 50 of the large oysters and started grilling and just eating them raw.

Amerrrica! Shuck yeah!

I was either being a baby by fearing eating the large oysters raw, or I was being a bitch by not warning the others who hadn’t been advised by those nice U$C assholes. Either way, I was a big old B and just kept quiet. My excuse was that I was hot and full of oyster, bacteria, and slime, not to mention buzzed from the unchilled white wine and was lulled into a headspace where I could only shovel pineapple into my mouth and gaze at the bay. R2 and I soon took our leave and drove back to the city…where I got off completely scot-free with NO bowel irregularity!  Boo yeah!

Tomales Bay Oyster Company
15479 Highway 1 | Marshall, CA | 94940
415.663.1242

Espana Part Four: Barcelona Part Two

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

Do they really need ALL of us to hold them up? Don’t they has wings?

After our toothpicky fun, R2 and I went to the Barcelona cathedral – technically Catedral de Santa Eulalia de Barcelona. Saint Eulalia was a poor 13-year-old girl who was tortured 13 times by the Romans for refusing to recant her Christianity before being crucified on an X-shaped cross; this X appears on every pew and all over the catedral.

Until I wiki-ed it right now, I didn’t quite understand what “tortured 13 times” meant, but apparently this included cutting off her breasts, putting her into a barrel with glass or perhaps knives (details) and rolling her down a hill, and decapitation (at which point a dove allegedly flew out of her neck stump?).

Intensezors.

To lighten the mood, R2 said:

Catedral. CATedral. LOLCATedral. Get it? Wordplay.

Janet: [weakly] heh heh

R2: [insistent] LOLCATedral! …Where we sacrifice Buttins [Tinx's cat; see below] to Satan! …That’s YOU! [Satan is indeed my nickname in some circles] Didn’t you say you wanted to eat a beating snake heart? You can eat a beating kitteh heart!

Janet: [stares]

R2: [getting more desperate] Or a BUNNY!  But it has to be a CUTE bunny! A…white one! Virginal! It MUST be the cutest bunny on all the earth to satisfy the mighty and terrifying LOLCATedral gods!

Janet: I’m SO putting this in the blog.

R2: Noooo I’m gonna seem creepy!

Done and done.

The law clearly states you can’t do anything mean to me or my heart once my pupils reach a certain size

For dinner we did a Rick Steves-sanctioned tapas crawl in the Ribera district. We went to Taller de Tapas, which was a trendy and upscale tapas bar where we paid much money for standard fare. Standard meaning jamon de croquettes, bacalao de croquettes, deep fried artichoke, and pan. After a day of walking around, and after the tall pitcher of cava sangria (white sangria with bubbly) we had on the waterfront, we much enjoyed the food as efficient calorie-delivering vehicles.

R2 sang the word “balls” to the rhythm of that Shots song

Next we went to Sagardi, which sounded fun in the guidebook because it was a grab-whatever-you-want kind of place, and the actual establishment was HOPPIN. But as soon as we got there, I had brain/worm deja vu. And I looked farther down the bar and realized that ALL the tapas were identical to that we had seen earlier at Taverna Basca Irati which was a disappointment and a half since (a) we had eaten it all earlier and (b) we realized Rick Steves was playing favorites but trying to lie to us about it. Just to confirm, I looked at their menu, which had the same logo as Irati, thus confirming our suspicions. We said “PAH!” and stomped out (but not before eating a smoked salmon pintxo with nommalicious horseradish).

We put the guidebook away (why were we trusting a guy who (a) has two first names; and (b) has a weird already-pluralized last name so it’s confusing as to where to put the apostrophe in the first place?) and went into a smaller but still classy joint a little bit down the street. We were not given a menu but were commanded to order by a scary lady, so we just pointed to some things that were out on the bar. We ended up with some sort of meatball and some sort of fish stew.

Damnit did I use my R2 balls story already?

I wish wish wished the meatballs were lamb, but instead I think they were beef. The green olives nestled in there were the best part.

The fish stew was oilier than I preferred, but so salty it zinged all the way into my eyebrows (which I like).

R2 said “CLAMS CLAMS” like that robot Mafia dude on Futurama

I loved Espana, but I was missing cheese. Manchego is nice but as mild as butter. So we headed to Cheese Me, where we got a Spanish cheese plate.

The blue cheese on the slab was so sharp it made my mouth hurt and tingle thereafter for at least three minutes. It was sharp enough to the point that eating it became a game, akin to consuming Pop Rocks or Atomic Fireballs. I would play blue cheese roulette by going around the platter in a circle, making excited Wheel of Fortune noises when I got close to landing on the blue cheese.

I may have been massively drunk.

Chickens can’t make this – yet another reason why fowl sucks

The following day we went to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia – a super cool outing with dizzifying circular stairs up and down incredibly tall spires. I liked looking at Gaudi’s desk, which was preserved exactly as it was on the day of his death.

If you look closely, you can see his sack dinner hanging there. Apparently his dinner consisted of  two small slices of bread spread with honey and a small handful of raisins, thus proving to me that he might be an architectural genius, but he’s a glycemic index dumbass.

[Menacingly] I eat dinners like yours for BREAKFAST

Now that we knew that Rick Steves recs were generally American-friendly and chain-ey, we decided to do his “dark,” “rough-edged” tapas crawl that will “stain your journal” along Carrer de la Merce. We assumed that this meant, in normal speak, that this would be just a normal tapas crawl. And it was.

First was R2′s favorite resto and favorite dish in all of Spain, at La Pulperia. There, we had pulpo – octopus – a la plancha. It was grilled, salty, and flavorful, and rapidly cut up into bits by Mr. Pulpo (R2′s name for him) using scissors.

It’s ok it’s ok – that’s paprika on us, not blood

Then, to La Plata, which served only fried anchovies (FINALLY! We had been hunting for them since Madrid), salad, and super cheap keg wine. Fried anchovies might be my new popcorn.

Then, to a place not mentioned in the guidebook, but another one of our favorites. The people there were cheerful and friendly. We ordered sidra, the native hard cider, and appropriately marveled when he poured it out from the height of at least five feet over a barrel, and then promptly choked when the first sip hit our mouths. How do I describe it? Like a salty beer with a malty aftertaste that smells of apples. Not…great.

I assure you no walrus wants this bukkit

As we were politely suffering through our sidra, a family from New Orleans came over. The dad in the fam was clearly overserved, though in a jolly kind of way.

Dad: Now, that beef thang – HOW long is it aged?

Owner lady: Two years.

Dad: Now I’m talking about about that beef – that amazing beef. HOW long is it aged?

Owner lady: Two years. Yes, it is very delicious. Two years.

Dad: [to wife] Dang that beef was good. I asked her how long she thought it was aged but I couldn’t get a clear answer outta her. [To us] Y’ALL GOTTA TRY IT!

We obeyed.

We’ve been aged X number of years!

It was just like the luscious jamon, but this time with beef. Exactly in between ham and jerky. Well, perhaps more on the ham side. It was smoother and more deeply flavored than the jamon we had encountered, and was indeed worth getting riled up about.

We were chock full of food at this point, and couldn’t finish our entire plate, which deeply concerned both owner lady and owner man. We insisted that it was just because we were full, but they were unconvinced and to this day I wish I had just sucked it up and eaten it because their heartbroken eyes were too much to bear.

Leaving Barcelona was too much to bear. Luckily we were destined for the ultimate European beach holiday…in Mallorca!

Barcelona Part One

Monday, July 19th, 2010

Lucida says mmm

Phreww. Remind me never to go this long without posting again, because I just had to moderate 499 spam comments that had built up while I was slacking (shouldn’t have bothered – 100% of them were indeed spam) while I was getting into some shenans with my mom & sis and obsessed with the Millenium Triology and other busy-ness in the past couple of weeks.

The spammers are getting cleverer. Everything would be fine if I had friends who didn’t just comment “awesome!” but I do, so I have to read through them all.  I do this also because I’m guessing you don’t want to buy cheap Uggs, and I KNOW you don’t want FREE SEX VIDEO!!! right??

Some spam comments are obvy:

Intimately, the post is really the sweetest on this worthw hile topic. I harmonise with your conclusions and will thirstily look forward to your upcoming updates. Just saying thanks will not just be sufficient, for the tremendous clarity in your writing. I will instantly grab your rss feed to stay informed of any updates. Genuine work and much success in your business enterprize!

Nevermind that it’s all true – it’s still spam, ya dingus!  My favorite by far, though, and one I almost let through for its sheer weirdness:

Shakespeare’s feeble attempt; Mehears the lady LOL, mehopes not at mine nether hole

So, returning to the Europa Vacation-of-Lifetime, R2 and I arrived in Barcelona for a three-night stay. Just like in Madrid,  we had not thought to look up how to get to our hotel, so all we had was an address. After asking two people who not only didn’t know but also hated us for asking, a subway employee pointed to a stop on the metro map and made a slow heil Hitler motion.

We got off at the designated station and I found a random map and figured out the direction of our hotel. Then we realized as we huffed and puffed uphill that that’s what the guy meant – go uphill after exiting the station.

We stayed at Hotel Medium Aristol and were greeted by Ibo, who was truly awesome. Kind, cute, silly, friendly, incredibly informative, go-out-of-way-ey, stylish, cool.  R2 and I discussed how we would write a letter to Hotel Medium management and demand that he be promoted.  Also we planned to mail him our leftover metro card that still had like five rides on it.  We have done neither, shoot.

Thin and limp – bad for peens, good for jamon.

Ibo recommended that we go to the Joanic area of Barcelona, where apparently there is fun nightlife and tons of places to eat.  We obeyed and found a cute open square where a cafe had set up tons of tables for al fresco dining.  I got a big old beer (Chimay Rioja – a wine beer??) and we hit the top four classics of tapas – jamon (ham), pan (bread with tomato topping), patatas bravas (potatotes, fried) and croquetas de bacalao (mmm deep fried fish stick thingies filled with a luscious salted cod mousse).

True to late-eating-even-for-Espana form, we closed out the cafe, lost our nerve when we attempted to go into a seedy local-ey bar, and instead went to a tiki-vibed bar that stank of expats.  Here, R2 had a drink called “Monkey’s Lunch” which was full of bananas and Bailey’s and I’m sure Kahlua and was frothy and yummy and would have made true Spain lovers ashamed of us for being so safe.

The next day, we took a walk down the Ramblas where we saw all manner of animal for sale.  But you already know all about that. We also went into La Boqueria market – an amateur food photographer’s dream.

Even as a frog phobic I could stomach (get it?) this


Pineapple kind of looks like pound cake


Everything here will blow out your butthole


Pictured above –  some fresh squeezed juices.  If we ever have a proper fight R2 gets an automatic pass, because when we purchased a kiwi & coconut juice, he said “Let’s get another one” and I said “no” like a fucktard.  This is my greatest regret.  Stupidballs!  Gah.

Pictured top were strips of ham marketed like french fries.  I could only giggle at the wonderfulness of it all as I sucked them down like they were spaghetti.

For lunch proper, we went to a Rick Steves recommended pintxo bar. It was Taverna Basca Irati, and it has 40 kinds of hot and cold Basque pintxos (smaller tapas, usually on a slice of bread) where you pay by the honor system – you are charged for the number of toothpicks on your plate.

They kind of remind me of the things in Nausicaa

It was empty at the weird time that we went, smack in the middle of siesta.  Our server, a guy who looked like Spanish from Old School, made our tinto de veranos with extreme love and care, and so I loved him in return.  The emptiness meant we had our pick of the pintxos and gleefully bounded from one end of the bar to the other, grabbing pintxos at random.

Brains with worms on them


TWO kinds of caviar? Your awesomeness is crushing the bread below

Despite all the fanciness and prettiness, my favorite was just a hunk of bread with a lone spicy sausage toothpicked awkwardly on top. We overstuffed ourselves and even though the pintxos were 1.50 euro each, racked up a gigantic bill, natch.

So, I learned that people prefer shorter posts and more frequent posts, which is orthogonal to my style, but I’m going to try. Next will be Barcelona Part Two, in which I tell a story that R2 has begged me not to tell because it’ll make him look creepy.